"Arny Krueger" <arnyk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:MpSdnY5okOtZZofVnZ2dnUVZ_h2pnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "Phil" <phil_lee@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:481a81c7$0$4093$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> "Arny Krueger" <arnyk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> news:QI2dnWsKt7JXPYTVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> "Phil" <phil_lee@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>>> news:481912a7$0$7052$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>>>> I'm looking to use my factory sub
>>>> with a different amp with an adjustable crossover to
>>>> turn the resonating frequency down from the 160-250Hz
>>>> range to the 50-90 range.
>>>
>>> What car?
>
>> 2008 Scion TC. Small cabin and very small trunk.
>
>>>> I'm looking for decent-quality sound
>>>> without being "boomy."
>>>
>>> Doable. If the problem is boominess, it might be that
>>> your car audio system has the basics for low bass, but
>>> suffers from a poor factory tuning. The audio system in
>>> my Milan sounds like boomy, tizzly crap until you work
>>> over the bass and treble controls. Max cut for the bass,
>>> lots of cut on the treble.
>>
>> That's what I'm thinking. I ran a test track outputting
>> a sine wave from 350 Hz to 20Hz and it definitely started
>> becoming boomy starting at 250Hz and sharply cut response
>> at 160Hz.
>
> What were the factory engineers thinking?
>
>> It was the first time I had run such an audio
>> signal through the system and I was surprised to see that
>> the car's engineers had seemed to band-pass that range to
>> get the maximum amount of boom for the small wattage
>> factory sub amp.
>
> Factory amps are generally but not totally limited to bridged designs
> running directly off the battery. Historically switchmode supplies have
> been no-nos due to EMI concerns, but that is changing.
You mean 12VDC vs 120VAC?
>> Quite annoying because some of the
>> songs that I listen to will be resonate-y at some points
>> and then lose the low end, especially on sweepy types of
>> tracks.
>
> What were the factory engineers thinking?????
>
>>> Low bass is all about displacing air. The ability to
>>> move air goes up with the approximate cube of the
>>> diameter. Squared because of simple geometry of areas,
>>> and cubed because there is a fair correlation between
>>> diameter and Xmax.
>
>> Makes sense... probably akin to the volume formula of a
>> cylinder, huh?
>
> Hold that thought. ;-)
>
>>>> I'm not really willing
>>>> to sacrifice trunk space for this project; I'd only
>>>> retrofit an existing setup to the current spot where the
>>>> stock speaker is.
>
>>> Try equalization, then try a large Xmax driver, more
>>> power and keep on working with equalization.
>
>> I ended up getting a cheap amp with a on eBay last
>> night... I'm beginning to think I'm about to embark on
>> an expensive endeavor ;)
>
>> Would any old equalizer like something here do the trick?
>
>> http://www.pyramidcaraudio.com/itempage.asp?model=714EX
>
> Well, that might beat nothing, but Pyramid audio is IME generally
bottom
> feeding.
>
> One of the biggest running jokes in car sound is "Pyramid Watts".
I'm not looking for super hi-fi... consider me just slightly more attuned
than your average joe.
> If you're serious about equalization, you'll either go 1/3 octave or
> parametric.
Well, probably not that serious...
> You'd like to migrate home and studio technology for signal processing
> into that car. This is surprisingly doable because the expanding number
of
> products from that context run off of 12 volt or less wall-warts, and
> small 120 volt inverters are also priced attractively and thus
definately
> a possibility. Combine low-end studio-grade equalizers with a serious
> after-market power amp running in bridged mode, and you've got a start
on
> some good sounds. Along the way, you might fry the 6.5 inch driver or
beat
> it to death, so that's your cue to check places like Parts Express for
6.5
> inch drivers with a lot more Xmax and power-handling capacity.
Interesting ideas... I'll look into those; thanks.
Phil
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