"Phil" <phil_lee@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:481a81c7$0$4093$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "Arny Krueger" <arnyk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:QI2dnWsKt7JXPYTVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> "Phil" <phil_lee@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
>> news:481912a7$0$7052$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> I'm looking to use my factory sub
>>> with a different amp with an adjustable crossover to
>>> turn the resonating frequency down from the 160-250Hz
>>> range to the 50-90 range.
>>
>> What car?
> 2008 Scion TC. Small cabin and very small trunk.
>>> I'm looking for decent-quality sound
>>> without being "boomy."
>>
>> Doable. If the problem is boominess, it might be that
>> your car audio system has the basics for low bass, but
>> suffers from a poor factory tuning. The audio system in
>> my Milan sounds like boomy, tizzly crap until you work
>> over the bass and treble controls. Max cut for the bass,
>> lots of cut on the treble.
>
> That's what I'm thinking. I ran a test track outputting
> a sine wave from 350 Hz to 20Hz and it definitely started
> becoming boomy starting at 250Hz and sharply cut response
> at 160Hz.
What were the factory engineers thinking?
> It was the first time I had run such an audio
> signal through the system and I was surprised to see that
> the car's engineers had seemed to band-pass that range to
> get the maximum amount of boom for the small wattage
> factory sub amp.
Factory amps are generally but not totally limited to bridged designs
running directly off the battery. Historically switchmode supplies have
been
no-nos due to EMI concerns, but that is changing.
> Quite annoying because some of the
> songs that I listen to will be resonate-y at some points
> and then lose the low end, especially on sweepy types of
> tracks.
What were the factory engineers thinking?????
>> Low bass is all about displacing air. The ability to
>> move air goes up with the approximate cube of the
>> diameter. Squared because of simple geometry of areas,
>> and cubed because there is a fair correlation between
>> diameter and Xmax.
> Makes sense... probably akin to the volume formula of a
> cylinder, huh?
Hold that thought. ;-)
>>> I'm not really willing
>>> to sacrifice trunk space for this project; I'd only
>>> retrofit an existing setup to the current spot where the
>>> stock speaker is.
>> Try equalization, then try a large Xmax driver, more
>> power and keep on working with equalization.
> I ended up getting a cheap amp with a on eBay last
> night... I'm beginning to think I'm about to embark on
> an expensive endeavor ;)
> Would any old equalizer like something here do the trick?
> http://www.pyramidcaraudio.com/itempage.asp?model=714EX
Well, that might beat nothing, but Pyramid audio is IME generally bottom
feeding.
One of the biggest running jokes in car sound is "Pyramid Watts".
If you're serious about equalization, you'll either go 1/3 octave or
parametric.
You'd like to migrate home and studio technology for signal processing
into
that car. This is surprisingly doable because the expanding number of
products from that context run off of 12 volt or less wall-warts, and
small
120 volt inverters are also priced attractively and thus definately a
possibility. Combine low-end studio-grade equalizers with a serious
after-market power amp running in bridged mode, and you've got a start on
some good sounds. Along the way, you might fry the 6.5 inch driver or beat
it to death, so that's your cue to check places like Parts Express for 6.5
inch drivers with a lot more Xmax and power-handling capacity.
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