"Arny Krueger" <arnyk@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:QI2dnWsKt7JXPYTVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> "Phil" <phil_lee@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
> news:481912a7$0$7052$4c368faf@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>> Would I be able to get low 40-90Hz sounds from a 6.5"
>> sealed sub in a car?
>
> Shouldn't be a problem, with the right 6.5 inch driver. Efficiency
won't
> be wonderful, and you may have to search around for a 6.5 inch woofer
with
> enough Xmax. I think there are some in the Peerless catalog.
>
> Doing low bass in a car is far easier than in rooms, because a car is in
> essence a small room. Even a large SUV does not have a lot of cubes
> compared to a typical listening room.
>
>> I'm looking to use my factory sub
>> with a different amp with an adjustable crossover to turn
>> the resonating frequency down from the 160-250Hz range to
>> the 50-90 range.
>
> What car?
2008 Scion TC. Small cabin and very small trunk.
>> I'm looking for decent-quality sound
>> without being "boomy."
>
> Doable. If the problem is boominess, it might be that your car audio
> system has the basics for low bass, but suffers from a poor factory
> tuning. The audio system in my Milan sounds like boomy, tizzly crap
until
> you work over the bass and treble controls. Max cut for the bass, lots
of
> cut on the treble.
That's what I'm thinking. I ran a test track outputting a sine wave from
350 Hz to 20Hz and it definitely started becoming boomy starting at 250Hz
and sharply cut response at 160Hz. It was the first time I had run such
an
audio signal through the system and I was surprised to see that the car's
engineers had seemed to band-pass that range to get the maximum amount of
boom for the small wattage factory sub amp. Quite annoying because some
of
the songs that I listen to will be resonate-y at some points and then lose
the low end, especially on sweepy types of tracks.
>> Has anyone seen this done easily,
>> or am I looking for too much out of a 6.5" sub? Would I
>> need to go to 8, 10, 12 inches?
>
> Low bass is all about displacing air. The ability to move air goes up
with
> the approximate cube of the diameter. Squared because of simple geometry
> of areas, and cubed because there is a fair correlation between diameter
> and Xmax.
Makes sense... probably akin to the volume formula of a cylinder, huh?
>> I'm not really willing
>> to sacrifice trunk space for this project; I'd only
>> retrofit an existing setup to the current spot where the
>> stock speaker is.
>
> Try equalization, then try a large Xmax driver, more power and keep on
> working with equalization.
I ended up getting a cheap amp with a on eBay last night... I'm beginning
to think I'm about to embark on an expensive endeavor ;)
Would any old equalizer like something here do the trick?
http://www.pyramidcaraudio.com/itempage.asp?model=714EX
Phil
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