"Matt Ion" <soundy106@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote in message
news:fvr4ku$nlr$1@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Neil Green wrote:
>
>>>>> One other thing you want to check is the speaker
>>>>> phase - make sure both + terminals in the wiring
>>>>> are connected to the appropriate + terminal on
>>>>> each speaker. If the speakers are out of phase
>>>>> with each other (+/- reversed), the two cones
>>>>> will be working against each other and canceling
>>>>> bass that way.
>>>> Checked that with a meter, all OK.
>>> A meter won't tell you if the polarity is right.
>>
>> Mine does.
>> A minus sign displays if the polarity is wrong as
>> you measure the voltage.
>> All OK.
>
> Umm... what voltage are you measuring?
>
> The signal coming out of the deck is AC; the signal
> phase has to be the same in both speakers. There is
> no "right" or "wrong" polarity as such, they just
> have to be the same. A DC meter won't give you a
> meaningful reading.
The AC bit is news to me, I was under the impression
that the current to the speakers was DC, but as you
can probably tell I'm more or less ignorant in these
matters.
Anyway, the meter showed a minus sign one way and not
the other, and I connected the two speakers
accordingly. (The connectors on the loom of the car
were both the same size so that was no help, replaced
one of them at each speaker with a smaller one)
>
>>> Is this car running the stock deck as well, or is
>>> it an aftermarket deck?
>>
>> The stock deck was a cassette player (it's a '92
>> model car).
>> We put a Pioneer head unit in, can't remember the
>> model but all the reviews were good.
>
> That makes it a little easier then, because you can
> check the polarity of the connections to the deck,
> then confirm them at the speaker end. If you used
> the factory speaker wiring, just follow the wiring
> color codes and make sure the + and - outputs on the
> deck properly match the terminals on the speakers.
My son actually had them written down (good boy!) and
they tallied with how we had the speakers wired so
it's all good as far as that goes.
>
>>> A basic sealed box with an 8" sub will give him
>>> nice clean bottom end without need of massive
>>> amounts of amp power. The bass can then be
>>> filtered out of the 6s.
>>
>> No room for a sub I'm afraid, he'll have to live
>> with less bass or maybe beef up the 7 x 5's in the
>> front doors and fade more to the front.
>> Either way he'll have to live with the limitations
>> of the system.
>> Thanks very much for your time.
>
> There's always room for a sub :) Build a baffle out
> of 3/4" MDF, put it behind the back seat, and mount
> a freeair sub in it, no box required :)
The rear seats fold forward so there's nothing to
mount a sub on, and my son needs the folding seats to
stow golf clubs..
>
> 5x7s won't give you significantly more bass than 6"
> rounds, BTW. Bass response is a factor of the
> amount of air moved, and that has two factors when
> it comes to the speakers: cone surface area, and
> excursion. Not accounting for the tapered shape of
> the cone itself or differences in surround width, a
> 5x7 speaker nominally has about 27.5 sq. in. of
> surface area; a 6.5" round speaker has 44 sq. in. of
> surface area. In other words, excursion
> notwithstanding, a 6.5" round speaker moves almost
> twice as much as a 5x7.
OK, so we make up an MDF parcel shelf and kill a
little of the bass, that's OK.
The system sounds fine apart from the bass distortion
so I'll tell him to go easy.
Once again, thanks very much for your time and
patience.
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