GregS wrote:
> In article <dIedneBNccaP64rVnZ2dnUVZ_vyinZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>, ChrisB
<ChrisB@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>> GregS wrote:
>>> In article <voOdnX06H48Kz4rVnZ2dnUVZ_judnZ2d@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>, ChrisB
>> <ChrisB@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>> ruens wrote:
>>>>> On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:22:17 -0500, ChrisB
>>>>> <ChrisB@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> (...)
>>>>>
>>>>>> No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how
sophisticated the
>>>>>> thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went
on to
>>>>>> tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area,
and
>>>>>> seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
>>>>>> Uniforms, papers, you name it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make
the
>>>>>> bastard work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car
alarm
>>>>>> install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect
it
>>>>>> to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car)
and I
>>>>>> am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
>>>>>> vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The
only
>>>>>> downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16
hours due
>>>>>> to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of
the
>>>>>> brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task,
plus it
>>>>>> wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!
>>>>> In addition to hiding the brain, you should consider a backup
battery
>>>>> and a few backup sirens. A hidden alarm brain alone is useless if
the
>>>>> battery wire is cut or removed.
>>>> Oh, I am definitely going with a battery backup! Every alarm I ever
>>>> installed had one, so this will be no exception.
>>>>
>>>> I am also going to use a couple of pain generators inside the cabin,
as
>>>> Matt suggested! That delayed trigger is also a good idea.
>>>>
>>>> Of all the ironies, a friend of mine who works as an installer at
Best
>>>> Buy has been telling me what I should do! He said that they, Best
Buy,
>>>> don't do starter disables because they were forced to pay too many
tow
>>>> charges, yet he told me that I need to disrupt the starter AND
something
>>>> else (fuel pump and/or ECU) because the starter disable would not
stop a
>>>> thief from push starting my car! I just find it ironic that he is
>>>> making suggestions of how to protect my vehicle yet he doesn't
install
>>>> those protection features as a "professional" installer.
>>> I would not ever disable the starter. It gives the thief
>>> something to do. Creates a larger noise and time delay. Just disable
the fuel
>>> or ignition.
>>>
>>> greg
>> That is what I meant by starter kill.... I usually break the ignition
>> circuit somewhere other than the ignition harness in the steering
>> column. I am of the opinion that splicing close to the key just gives
>> the thief the information he needs to hot wire the car! Hell, 15 years
>> ago I used to base my alarm installs off of the shoddy installs that I
>> saw other "professionals" do! I am still shocked to see that the
>> installs today are just as shoddy, except now they don't even disable
>> the vehicle.
>>
>> I guess the factory immobilizer circuits are supposed to keep the
>> vehicles safe..... Oh wait, I almost forgot that the real thieves
>> already know a way around those too.
>
> You should have your insurance reduced when you have a theftproof
> device installed. My insurance still has that ever since I installed one
> long ago.
Mine as well, although they require that it be a passive-arm device (so
you can't "forget" to activate it). Whether you believe it's effective
or not, everyone who has an alarm with an immobilizer of some sort
should INSIST that the installer connect it, as I believe most insurance
companies will give a discount for it.
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