On Dec 4, 6:58 pm, lust4sound <lust4sound.313...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Robert Wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Dec 4, 8:44 pm, "Hube...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
" <Hube...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> > > On Dec 3, 9:23 pm, lust4sound <lust4sound.311...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> > > mx.caraudioforum.com> wrote:
> > > > I'm new here but this is simple enough, thought I'd throw my 2
> > cents in
> > > > and try to help. I hope I don't offend any of the resident Car
> > Audio
> > > > Scholars with my meddling. First off, buy the extra cable for the
> > sub
> > > > and run it. Since the head unit features pre-outs for all 6
> > channels,
> > > > take advantage of this, you paid extra money for this feature. The
> > neat
> > > > thing about this feature is that it gives you control of all the
> > > > channels right from the head unit. If your head unit has built in
> > > > crossovers that are easy to define and use, you should use them as
> > > > well. This combination of features makes it so much more
convenient
> > to
> > > > dial in a good sound right from the drivers seat. Don't, I repeat
> > DO
> > > > NOT skimp on cables. For best results with minimal signal loss and
> > no
> > > > interference, make sure all of your RCA cables are of the highest
> > > > quality. The 12 dollar Radio Shack jobs are not really up to
> > snuff.
> > > > Assuming that your head unit has built in crossovers and a
> > separate
> > > > subwoofer level control, set your amps to full range (if they
allow
> > you
> > > > to do so) use your head unit to dial in the sound. Be sure to run
> > amp
> > > > power leads through one side of your car, RCA cables through the
> > other,
> > > > this to help insure you won't be getting any electrical
> > interference
> > > > from the cars charging system regardless of how expensive your RCA
> > > > cables are. Don't skimp on amp power wires either, you want to
> > keep
> > > > your amps fed with plenty of current through the thickest wires
> > they
> > > > will accept. It is a good idea to run at least a 4 gage all the
> > way
> > > > from the battery to the amps and use a distribution block to step
> > it
> > > > down to 8 gage (thinner wire) as close to the amps as possible,
> > this to
> > > > ensure max current flow (I'm assuming the amps will not accept
> > thicker
> > > > than 8 gage) Keep your ground wire as short as possible. Follow
> > the
> > > > first example with this, using 4 gage all the way to the amps,
> > then
> > > > using a distribution block to step down to 8 gage right at the
> > amps.
> > > > When grounding, it is im****tant to have a freshly exposed ****ny
> > metal
> > > > surface to ground to. rTo do this, you may have to remove any
> > paint
> > > > down to the bare metal, remove also any dirt, oil or contaminants
> > in
> > > > this area. Sandpaper to remove paint and contaminants, followed by
> > > > rubbing alcohol. Oil or grease should be removed with a solvent
> > first,
> > > > wiped dry with a clean rag then sanded, then wiped clean with
> > alcohol
> > > > and a clean rag. To maintain a good contact surface, treat the
> > freshly
> > > > exposed metal surface with a silicon that is used for electrical
> > > > contacts. The idea is getting a freshly exposed metal surface for
> > > > grounding, and keeping it that way by preventing corrosion. (make
> > sure
> > > > the battery terminals are treated the same way, remove them from
> > the
> > > > battery, using a battery terminal cleaner/brush, brush, clean and
> > spray
> > > > them as well) This helps to insure max current to your amps. 1
> > other
> > > > thing, if you're bridging the sub amp, make sure it's not getting
> > any
> > > > less than a 4 ohm load. I'm assuming you already know all of this,
> > just
> > > > thought I'd throw it out there. If you find any of this info to be
> > > > useful and are looking for some tips on tuning, post a reply, I'll
> > be
> > > > more than happy to help. Sorry if I stepped on anyones toes, I
> > know
> > > > there are some forums that are dominated by territorial tutors
> > that
> > > > take offense when anyone new tries to answer questions.. Hope it
> > helps.
> > > > Good luck.
>
> > > > --
> > > > lust4sound
>
> >
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > lust4sound's Profile: 55269
> > > > View this
> > thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/showthread.php?t=285937
> > > > CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over TWO million posts
> > online!
>
> > We weren't referring to the brand RCA, but RCA type connectors.
> > Otherwise known at the red and white plugs.
> > As for running signal and power cables together refer to:
> >http://www.roclife.org/forums/showthread.php?t=49990
>
> > or...any other audio forum on the internet. If you still aren't
> > convinced I will send you phase diagrams for high current draws.
> > And the Stinger multi amp kit comes with more than just the 2 RCA
> > cables, they were the only components salient to my problem. It
> > actually comes with:
> > a main fuse, a distribution block, 2 in line fuses for 2-4 amps, a 1.2
> > Farad Capacitor, 50ft of 16 ga speaker wire, 4 ga power wires,
> > etc ,etc
> >http://tinyurl.com/37q683
>
> > Cheers
>
> What did a setup like that cost?
>
> --
> lust4sound
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> lust4sound's Profile: 55269
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thread:http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/showthread.php?t=285937
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>
> --
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hit the ol ebay link to see exactly what is in the kit. SWCKH44. It
isn't on stingers website but is found randomly on the internet. I
paid 212 incl ****pping on ebay, and expect to pay 30 max in canadian
border tariffs. It retails for 335 + tax in canada @[EMAIL PROTECTED]
futureshop. The
neat thing about the kit is that two of the components have LED
screens on them (distributor block current [ithink] and cap voltage).
Also, it comes with crimpers...
I actually haven't seen the kit yet [out of box], I am on a work term
and ****pped everything home. I am patiently waiting for 2.5 more
weeks....
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