Bob Cain said...
> Philippe Lemaire wrote:
> > Bob Cain said...
> >> Philippe Lemaire wrote:
> >>> John in detroit said...
> >>>> Philippe Lemaire wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> As it can blank the disc, I can suppose the head still warms...
> >>>>> I will start with some alcohol cleaning and see !
> >>>> Ok, well I"m not sure if just the laser can blank the disk
> >>>>
> >>>> But take a good close look at the overwrite head (top head) it
needs to
> >>>> be parallel to the disk when recording, slightly lifted if not
recording.
> >>>>
> >>>> I have seen them get bent out of position when a disk is inserted
wrong,
> >>>> I've seen broken wires on the head (it is sup****ted on 2 wires,
both
> >>>> need to be there as they both carry current)
> >>>>
> >>>> I've managed to reposition them a couple of times but this is NOT
a
> >>>> procedure I'd suggest you try except as a last resort.
> >>>>
> >>> Thanks !
> >>>
> >>> I did open :-( !
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Both wires are broken although a plastic layer is still intact...
> >>> The other is at right angle of it !
> >>>
> >>> Any suggestion as to let the current flow again ?
> >>>
> >>> Silver paint ?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Philippe
> >> Silver epoxy might work. Can you take some pics and post them
somewhere so we
> >> can have a look?
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >
> > Here : http://home.scarlet.be/phl/MZ-N1_MD.JPG
> >
> > The point is also not to short cut both tracks :-( !
>
> The problem with that break is that it is at the point of flexure (of
course.)
> Any kind of local patch will be subject to the same flexure and will
surely fail
> rather quickly. I'd still give it a shot with silver epoxy, though, but
I'd do
> the reconnection with fine limp braided and insulated wire (Google on
"limp
> wire" and you should be able to find some that is used in model
railroading.)
>
> I'd trim out the broken section cutting at the broader traces nearer the
head
> and back toward the fixed section. I'd then find a way to expose the
sandwiched
> traces and connect the two separated ends with the limp wire (suitably
> restrained to avoid getting caught on anything) using silver epoxy.
After
> exposing the traces it might even be solderable. Whether using silver
epoxy or
> solder, after checking continuity cover over the joins with a good, slow
curing
> epoxy resin for strength.
>
> It takes some bravery to take on repairs like this but using good
lighting and
Thanks for your answer !
I will read it carefully on Saturday...
What do you think of using a piece of floppy disc (or ?) flexible cable
with two repair zones (unstressed) instead of working in the critical
place ?
Philippe thankful
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