Philippe Lemaire wrote:
> Bob Cain said...
>> Philippe Lemaire wrote:
>>> John in detroit said...
>>>> Philippe Lemaire wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> As it can blank the disc, I can suppose the head still warms...
>>>>> I will start with some alcohol cleaning and see !
>>>> Ok, well I"m not sure if just the laser can blank the disk
>>>>
>>>> But take a good close look at the overwrite head (top head) it needs
to
>>>> be parallel to the disk when recording, slightly lifted if not
recording.
>>>>
>>>> I have seen them get bent out of position when a disk is inserted
wrong,
>>>> I've seen broken wires on the head (it is sup****ted on 2 wires, both
>>>> need to be there as they both carry current)
>>>>
>>>> I've managed to reposition them a couple of times but this is NOT a
>>>> procedure I'd suggest you try except as a last resort.
>>>>
>>> Thanks !
>>>
>>> I did open :-( !
>>>
>>>
>>> Both wires are broken although a plastic layer is still intact...
>>> The other is at right angle of it !
>>>
>>> Any suggestion as to let the current flow again ?
>>>
>>> Silver paint ?
>>>
>>>
>>> Philippe
>> Silver epoxy might work. Can you take some pics and post them
somewhere so we
>> can have a look?
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>
> Here : http://home.scarlet.be/phl/MZ-N1_MD.JPG
>
> The point is also not to short cut both tracks :-( !
The problem with that break is that it is at the point of flexure (of
course.)
Any kind of local patch will be subject to the same flexure and will
surely fail
rather quickly. I'd still give it a shot with silver epoxy, though, but
I'd do
the reconnection with fine limp braided and insulated wire (Google on
"limp
wire" and you should be able to find some that is used in model
railroading.)
I'd trim out the broken section cutting at the broader traces nearer the
head
and back toward the fixed section. I'd then find a way to expose the
sandwiched
traces and connect the two separated ends with the limp wire (suitably
restrained to avoid getting caught on anything) using silver epoxy. After
exposing the traces it might even be solderable. Whether using silver
epoxy or
solder, after checking continuity cover over the joins with a good, slow
curing
epoxy resin for strength.
It takes some bravery to take on repairs like this but using good lighting
and
magnification it's doable. Not much to lose with the attempt.
Good Luck,
Bob
--
"Things should be described as simply as possible, but no simpler."
A. Einstein
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