now all the lights inside my home have changed their colours, and tTLR is
lit in this bluish shade of white, since recently my mains fuse blew and I
replaced it with a new one from the shops.
what shops. any shops!
it must be indicative of something. also my treble has now completely
gone,
and my tube is reproducing the whole coloric spectrum with a ready blue
shift. furthermore my speaker volume has been halved, and the same basicly
goes for the yield of my tv. was has been left of my audio spectrum
however
is largely, but by no means completely undistorted, though dull, where it
used to be a loud distorted mess. my educated guess is that there is a
nano-ADA (analogue to digital to analogue) converter device hidden inside
these new fuses, that we can have no knowledge of.
basicly if you use any of these new fuses all analogue AV equipment will
perform digitally adequate, so no perceivable difference with superior
digital equipment may be established. this is probably because presently
all
electric applications will have to undergo some form of wireless remote
control, requiring any power flow to pass through a digital stage at some
point, preferably where all power lines combine, that is at the mains
fuse.
since no other fuses are currently available, I used large (250V) glass
fuses (3 x 5A + 1 x 1A = 16A) that cost about a dollar a piece. only
problem
is they don't fit into the fuse box. and attemting to make them fit is
prohibited by law. which goes to show my previously made claim that
reproducing the human voice is in fact prohibited on this planet, if not
by
copyright law then by way of socio-economic coercion, or force.
now if you take a large chassis/diy mains switch, that usually come in red
or green, and light up when set to the ON position, as used for washing
machines etc, it will typically be 16A. and if you take a double one, it
will even be 32A if you combine the lines. such switches will cost you 5
to
10 dollar.
using a, preferably flexible, 2.5mm gauge wire, you must connect, i.e.
solder that switch onto the incoming live wire BEFORE it connects to the
mains fuse. this wire is typically live, since on the streetside it
connects
to a 63A fuse, at least in Patchwork Diy, a fuse that is located either in
or outside the house, separating our 220V from the street cable's 600V, a
fuse that is in a sealed box to prevent anyone not qualified from handling
600V, and thus disconnecting the 63A fuse, by whatever means available.
so since we cannot disconnect the power, our only option is to solder our
switch onto a 220V live wire. to do this you must use a pointed copper tip
in your soldering iron and use it to CARRY drops of molten solder (one is
usually enough) to the soldering area, since you cannot feed solder thread
by hand onto a 220V live wire. the soldering iron however is properly
insulated, usually to a 1000V.
you could of course temporarily disconnect the incoming live wire from the
fuse box, which is a clamped connection, using an insulated screwdriver
and
an insulated pair of nippers, but the problem is you will need to draft
power from somewhere for your soldering iron. so unless you have a gas
heated iron and sufficient light to work in, it's no use.
since many soldering irons are in fact earthed appliances, they would
create
a short upon touching live power, and in the area preceding your own fuses
you would blow the 63A fuse, which can only be replaced by a qualified guy
from the power company, typically in the middle of the night.
so you will have to heat up the iron and then UNPLUG it to do the live
soldering, and subsequently make shure that the plug is protected from
touching any other connections to ground like metal pipes etc. with short
and inconvenient consequences.
needless to say that a fusebox is full of both null (blue) and grounding
(green/yellow) connections, and that you must avoid touching any of these
with the tip of your iron when soldering onto the incoming live (brown)
wire, or a short will result. best is to beforehand identify each of these
c
onnections (including chassis parts, metal screws connecting to chassis
etc.) by using a multimeter, preferably without creating a short with the
leads. in case of danger there would a 220V AC difference with the live
wire.
try to shield your work (soldering) area from all possible shorting
connections with pieces of cardboard. if you do not trust yourself with
doing the operation at once, you can practice soldering onto a live wire
that is connected to an outlet inside the house, so in case of a mistake
you
will only blow your own fuses.
as long as you know what you are doing, there's nothing mysterious or
tricky
about soldering onto a 220V live wire, since it is only live in RELATION
to
grounding connections. kept by itself it may be hot or cold, but not live.
just do not make any connections to ground and do not touch it without
proper insulation.
once you have connected the switch, you can use it to switch OFF the
branche
of the incoming live wire that connects to your switch. this will allow
you
to connect (solder) any type of fuse you like to the outgoing end of the
switch, and in turn connect that to an AV group of your choice. and more
important, to replace it in case it blows.
note that, as opposed to the design of the fuse box, in which the fuses
precede the switches, our switch precedes the fuse, which allows us to
safely do our diy-ing.
for safety purposes it would be recommended to have both the incoming and
the outgoing wires to and from the switch soldered onto it before it is
actually connected to the incoming live wire, so you don't have to do any
soldering onto a live switch as well. both wires should be 2.5mm gauge.
note the the value (in amperes) of your diy fuse, as well as that of your
other groups, and possibly also that of other apartments, will each have
to
be sufficiently below that of the streetside fuse, so in case of a short
only your fuses will blow.
ideally the streetside fuse would have a value in excess of the total of
all
fuses that go behind it, so if all were to blow at once, it would not. in
reality it could be less than half that value, since it is gauged to
detect
suspicious activities rather than to prevent customer inconveniences, so
you
cannot randomly increase on the initial value of 16A. I wouldn't venture
past 32A anyway.
so that would be the procedure unless the industrial concept of the
old-fashioned all analogue mains fuse were to be immedeately reinstated. I
like them in boxes of 5 please.
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